How to frame a poster (and make it look custom)
Picking a frame size, deciding on a mat, choosing acrylic or glass, mounting without damage and assembling it flat, with the mat-size math done for you.
A framed poster looks like a decision; an unframed one looks temporary. The good news is that framing a poster well doesn't require a frame shop. With a ready-made frame, the right mat and twenty minutes, you can get a result that looks custom. This guide covers the choices in order: size, mat, glazing, mounting, assembly and hanging.
What is inside a frame
From front to back: the glazing (glass or acrylic), the mat (an optional card border with a window cut in it), the print, the backing board, and the frame's back with turn buttons or flexible points and hanging hardware. The recess that holds this stack is the rabbet; its depth decides how thick a stack the frame accepts.
Step 1: decide mat or no mat
No mat (full-bleed or "borderless"): the poster fills the frame opening edge to edge. Buy a frame the same size as the poster: 24 x 36 poster, 24 x 36 frame. It is the classic look for movie, music and graphic posters.
With a mat: a mat adds a border between art and frame. It makes prints look more considered, gives small prints presence on a large wall, and keeps the print surface off the glazing, which matters for valuable prints.
Mat-size math
Ready-made matted frames are sold by outer size, with a mat opening for a smaller print. Mat openings are cut slightly smaller than the print, typically by about 1/4 inch on each dimension, so the mat overlaps the edges and holds the print in place.
| Frame size | Common mat opening for | Border width (approx.) |
|---|---|---|
| 11 x 14 | 8 x 10 print | 1.5–2 in |
| 16 x 20 | 11 x 14 print | 2.5–3 in |
| 18 x 24 | 12 x 18 print | 3 in |
| 20 x 24 | 16 x 20 print | 2 in |
| 24 x 36 | 18 x 24 print | 3–6 in |
| 30 x 40 | 24 x 36 print | 3 in sides, 2 in top and bottom (custom cut) |
For a print that matches none of these, a custom-cut mat inside a standard frame is inexpensive and opens up many more combinations. Wider mats generally look more expensive; 2.5 to 4 inches suits most medium prints. Some framers make the bottom border slightly wider than the top ("bottom-weighted") so the art doesn't look like it is sliding down.
Choose an acid-free (conservation or museum) mat for anything you care about. Cheap paper mats can yellow and leave a brown line on the print over time.
Step 2: choose the frame
- Profile width: thin frames (under an inch) suit graphic posters and modern rooms; wider frames add weight to large art.
- Material: wood looks warm and traditional; aluminum is slim, light and modern; plastic and composite frames are cheap and light but can look it up close.
- Color: black and natural wood are safe with almost anything. White frames suit light, airy prints. Matching a color in the art can look great but limits where it hangs.
- Rabbet depth: check it fits glazing + mat + print + backing.
Step 3: choose the glazing
| Glazing | Pros | Cons | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Standard acrylic | Light, shatter-resistant, safe to ship | Scratches easily; static attracts dust | Large frames, kids' rooms, shipping |
| Standard glass | Scratch-resistant, crisp, cheap | Heavy; breaks; reflective | Small and medium frames at home |
| UV-filtering acrylic or glass | Blocks most UV light; slows fading | Costs more | Valuable prints, sunny rooms |
| Anti-reflective (museum) | Nearly invisible; very clear | Expensive | Statement art, rooms with windows |
| Non-glare (etched) | Reduces reflections | Slightly softens the image, especially with a mat | Budget glare fix |
For a large poster (24 x 36 and up), choose acrylic for weight and safety. For prints in sunny rooms, UV-filtering glazing is the single most effective upgrade. See how to protect prints from fading.
Step 4: mount the print
How you attach the print to the backing matters for both looks and value.
- Hinging (conservation method): attach the print to the backing only at the top with two small hinges of acid-free paper tape, so it hangs freely and can expand and contract with humidity. This is reversible and suits any print you value. A "T-hinge" is the common form.
- Photo corners: clear archival corners hold the print at its corners with no adhesive on the print itself. Easy and reversible; works best under a mat that hides the corners.
- Dry mounting: the print is glued or heat-bonded flat to a board. It looks perfectly flat but is permanent and lowers the value of collectible prints. Good for inexpensive posters that refuse to lie flat.
- Avoid: ordinary tape, glue sticks or spray adhesives on prints you want to keep.
Step 5: assemble it
- Work on a clean, soft surface. Wash and dry your hands, or use cotton gloves.
- Clean both sides of the glazing. For acrylic, use a microfiber cloth and acrylic cleaner or plain water; paper towels and ammonia cleaners can scratch or cloud it.
- Flatten the print first if it arrived rolled: reverse-roll gently or leave it under light weights between clean paper for a day.
- Attach the print to the backing (hinges or corners), centered in the mat window.
- Lay the frame face down, insert glazing, then mat, then print and backing.
- Before closing, lift the frame and check the front for dust, hairs or misalignment. Fix now; it only gets harder.
- Secure the back and attach hanging hardware. Sawtooth hangers suit small frames; wire between D-rings is better for medium and large frames.
Step 6: hang it at the right height
Center art at about 57 to 60 inches from the floor, the eye-level standard many galleries use. Above furniture, leave about 8 to 10 inches between the furniture top and the bottom of the frame. For heavy frames, use picture hooks rated for the weight or wall anchors, and two hooks for anything wider than about 24 inches so it stays level. Our gallery wall guide covers groupings, and choosing wall art size covers proportions.
When to use a professional framer
Consider custom framing for valuable, signed or limited-edition prints, unusual sizes, prints that need to be floated (shown with their edges visible), shadow boxes, very large pieces and anything with sentimental value. Ask for conservation materials (acid-free mat and backing, reversible mounting and UV-filtering glazing).
Where to shop for posters and wall art
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Questions people ask
What size frame do I need for a 24 x 36 poster?
A 24 x 36 inch frame for a borderless look. For a mat, choose a larger frame such as 30 x 40 or 32 x 44 inches with a custom-cut mat opening slightly smaller than 24 x 36.
Should I use glass or acrylic for a poster frame?
Acrylic for large frames, homes with children and anything that will be shipped; it is light and shatter-resistant. Glass is fine for small and medium frames and resists scratches better.
How do I keep a poster flat in a frame?
Flatten it before framing, use a firm backing board, and hinge it at the top or use a mat to hold it. For inexpensive posters that keep waving, dry mounting to a board fixes it permanently.
What is a mat in framing?
A card border with a window cut in it, placed between the print and the glazing. It adds visual space, makes a print look more finished, and keeps the print from touching the glass.
How high should I hang a framed poster?
With its center about 57 to 60 inches from the floor, or about 8 to 10 inches above the top of furniture beneath it.
Where to shop for posters and wall art
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Sources and further reading
Written and checked by K.R. for UnlimitedBanners.com. Product specs and prices change; confirm details with the printer or seller before you order. Spot an error? Tell us.


